A precious park with a solemn tribute. Luscious Parisian architecture. Locals sitting with their dogs, drinking coffee at a petite café as the world goes by. An afternoon glass of wine at the same spot later in the day. An occasional flea market popping up, with the most unusual - yet typical – treasures.

To be fair, this could be one of a hundred neighborhoods in Paris. But for me, the little neighborhood in the 3rd arrondisement, also known as Le Marais, is a specific slice of heaven.

The intersection of Rue de Bretagne and Rue des Archives that surrounds Square du Temple truly brings the magic.

**Fun fact: The weather was largely gloomy and cold while we were there and the pictures reflect it. I make no apologies about the fact that I was still happy as hell even in the November weather.

I discovered the pocket on a random walk on our third trip to Paris. “Ok, this is where I would want to live if I were a Parisienne,” I thought. Did I write down the road? Take a picture? Nah. Why be so obvious and practical? Couldn’t be me. I just remembered there was a bookshop, some street vendors and a pink gift shop.

I shocked myself two years later by inadvertently booking an Air BnB on that same corner, as if my travel guardian angels were working on my behalf.

Here are, in no particular order but it’s the internet so we have to make a numbered list…

The 7 things that make this neighborhood so special:

1. Square du Temple

The crown jewel! The buildings wrap their gorgeous arms around this pretty park, smiling over you as you take in the marsh, the ducks, the playground.

*No, I absolutely will not play chess with you because you’ll beat me.*

*Under the protective gaze of a classic Hausman.*

Pay special attention to the somber memorial statue for Holocaust survivor and author Elie Wiesel, who now deservedly shares the name with this peaceful spot.

2. Le Sancerre

I got to know the servers here by name. It was my Café Vida of Paris (this being only important if you know that I visit this LA eatery every week)

During my quiet pre-sunrise breakfasts, I would soak in every sight and sound to remember these mornings.

*Not for nothing but I felt like the character in the window was my döppelganger.*

My favorite serveuse here ever-so-sweetly informed me what I knew in my heart: That even though this classic beret I bought at BHV was pretty, as a tourist, I cannot and should not ever wear it in the streets of Paris. Don’t worry: I asked her opinion if people would scoff at me before she let me know.

*Standing on the balcony above the door of Le Sancerre, wearing said beret for the only time in Paris. It matched my sweater! How I could I not buy it?!*

3. Café de la Mairie

Another exquisite local eatery. The best thing about jet lag is that you can use it to your advantage by getting up and out the door before the crowds ruin it. (Ugh, tourists, amiright?)

Since many of my trips are fueled by a revolving diet of coffee and prosecco, it just so happens that one of those two drinks are usually featured heavily in my favorite moments.

Here’s a first morning of our trip, having a cup…

…and meeting a fabulous spaniel named Twist. His mom was a vendor at the huge flea market (or brocante) that was on the corner that day.

*His lashes were truly next level jealousy bait.*

Another regular canine at Café de la Mairie, Togs.

*It’s blurry on account of Togs didn’t like to sit still.*

4. Foufou

An old school bright yellow striped awning outside. Inside boasts a funky modern interior cement and mirrors and shabby chic furniture. Really cozy and sweet.

The mimosas are chic little flowery creations that’ll further remind you that you’re somewhere special.

5. Café Crème

Is the food and coffee any good? Hell, I don’t know. But I did have one of my most memorable cups there. Right before the trip wrapped, I was taking in the last day in Le Marais. doing a solo walk while my husband took a nap.

Outta nowhere…rainfall. Because I’m nothing if not unprepared at all times, I ducked into this rustic heart-themed spot, ordered a coffee and had a seat.

Then, I just watched the rain come down, soaking in the moment (or rather…drying off in the moment). These are the travel times I live for. For sure, I love the world-famous sites that take your breath away yada yada, but when I need a mental time-out in real life, this is where I go in my head.

6. Bontemps

Oh, oh…I didn’t actually eat here. I tried a few times and they were either too busy or closed. But it looked really cute and I hope someone goes so they can tell me all about it.

7. Monoprix

Glimpses into everyday life in foreign countries are like crack to me. Lemme just see what the locals’ versions of Target is and I’m stoked. That’s Monoprix. Part grocery store, part budget department store, part cosmetics playground. I was constantly looking for an excuse to go here. (See my feelings about Don Quijote in Japan)

*Crappy photo lifted from* *fr.mappy.com* *because I didn’t think to take a picture of it. Duh.*

Plus I met an actress who was shopping there from a Netflix show I watched while learning French. It’s called Plan Couer (aka “The Hookup Plan” in America) and you should watch it, even in English. I did not get a picture, because neither of us was looking camera ready and I respect a woman’s right to go shopping in sweats and a ballcap. She was sweet, we spoke entirely in French, we love her.

*But, I mean, Zita Hanrot (middle) is beautiful even on a rainy Friday morning.*

8-100. Everywhere and everything else here

Seriously, just go walking around this little pocket. That’s it. Take some of my advice. Or take a bottle of wine or a baguette to the park and strike out on your own!
Walk through the shops, sit in a café, fight the lunch crowds in Les Enfants Rouges, get snarled at by the clerks at Franprix or the fruit stand (or hey, maybe don’t do those last two things).

But my best Paris travel advice is always this: Find a block and explore it. And this one is un lieu magnifique to start.

The Broad Strokes

✈️ Flights: Air France LAX > CDG, 2 people roundtrip in business class for 200k total (+fees) from Chase

🛌 Hotel: Private apartment through Booking.com

📅 Time of Year: Thanksgiving week (Late November)

The Perfect Paris Pocket in the Marais

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